Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro (28.4km)

Today was a fantastic day. The walk was one of the most beautiful yet: it followed a flowing river through green mountains, quaint villages, and old forests. During the last 8 kilometers, there was about 800 meters (~2400) feet of elevation gain, which produced perhaps the most spectacular views of the Camino yet.

I wake up at 6:30, with the plan to be ready to leave at 7:00 again. I had slept okay, but had woken up sweaty due to my sleeping bag. My sleeping bag is rated for very cold temperatures, so whenever the heater is actually left on in an albergue, I wake up sweaty. I'm still figuring out the best set up for sleeping. Currently my best idea is to sleep with multiple jackets on and only use my sleeping bag on my legs. I guess we'll see if that works.

By 7:00, Sam, Margaret, Dan, and I have our bags together and are ready to go. I had bought breakfast at the grocery store last night, and so had Margaret, so we ate while Sam and Dan went on. Two older spanish couples and a Korean man were also eating. I've seen them multiple times throughout the last few days. We often pass each other while taking breaks. They don't speak much English, but they're very nice people. One of the spanish ladies and the Korean guy, Kim, told me last night that they decided I was very handsome. It was pretty funny, they can me "handsome guy" in thick accents now whenever they see me.

At 7:30, I head out alone to start my day. Everyone has decided that we prefer walking alone, so that's how the days go now. We start our walks together usually, drifting apart based on each person's natural pacing, and then meet up multiple times throughout the day for a coffee break. Then we drift again until we all get to the destination for the day. It's really nice, because it's the best of both worlds. Everyone gets their own personal Camino experience and plenty of hours to reflect, but we can also still all spend time together!

Since we're in the mountains now, the sunrise is much later. Today it's at 7:50, so I get to start my walk watching the sunrise. I call Mikayla as I walk, admiring the town's beauty in the twilight. I soon reach the end of the town, and see a beautiful sunrise when I look back.

As I walk into the mountains, the sunrise continues to unfold, so I take a seat at a bench and watch it while I talk to Mikayla. She tells me about her week and the time she's spent with friends. We marvel at the fact that I'm close enough to being home that we can actually start planning things to do now. I can't wait to see her again!

After the sunrise is done, Mikayla and I finish our call and I walk on. The town of Villafranca del Bierzo slowly slips out of view. The path I follow is on the shoulder of a main road through the mountains, occasionally cutting off of the road to follow at a slight distance in the dirt.

The road follows a river to my left. The majority of the trees are brown due to winter, but the grass is green and moss covers everything. I walk peacefully, taking the time to pray.

I spend time listening to He Leadeth Me, the book by Father Walter Cizek, and reflect on the idea that God is in all the little things. God's will is what happens in the 24 hours He gives us each day. The people He places us with, the events that occur, are all part of His will. We can choose to deny that and try to mold our idea of God's will to our own will, or we can accept the day as it is and cooperate with what God gives us, making the best of it no matter the situation. Only one of these options will truly bring us the peace we seek. Father Walter said that the trick is to take this abstract idea and put it into practice and perspective during every moment of every day. If we can see each event in our day from God's perspective, then we can see the purpose in each event. It's hard because it's such a simple truth, but the greatest truths are the most simple ones. I reflected on how I can try to put this into practice in my own life, which kept me busy for a few kilometers.

After a while, I come to a little village. I see Dan through the window of a cafe, so I head inside to join him for a coffee. Javier, the Spanish man we had met last night, is sitting with Dan. Margaret and Sam soon file in as well. I get a cafe con leche and enjoy it while talking with my friends about how their walk has been so far. Javier tells us about his job as a hotel manager and his newest position managing a hotel in Cuba. He has yet to start, and is curious to see how it will go, since Cuba is still fully communist and treats their citizens terribly. But he said it's a very beautiful country otherwise.

We each continue on one by one when we're ready. I head out and start listening to the Lord of the Rings on audiobook, but soon stop because it starts to rain. It's only a light drizzle, but I enjoy listening to the sound of the rain drops as they hit my hood. After a bit, I find another town, and stop for a quick pastry. Then I'm on my way again. I'm still following the same river, and the surroundings are starting to get more green.

I listen to the Gospel of the Day as I walk, and then a Saint story on Saint John Fischer. They're inspiring and spur me to think about how far I would go for my beliefs. Would I die for my beliefs, as Saint John Fischer did? I don't think I'd have the courage alone, but I know God would aid me if the situation ever arose.

I soon happen upon my friends again at the final town before our steep ascent into the mountains. Dan, Margaret, Sam, and I all enjoy some snacks in a little cafe together. I ask Dan about some British history and that topic lasts us a while. Right as we leave, Eva happens to walk up! She had left later because she ate breakfast at a different albergue, but since she's fast she caught up. We all walk together and talk for a little while before spreading out yet again.

The path finally splits off from the main road and winds out of sight into the forest. I follow it, and the uphill finally begins. It's very different from the flat we've had all day, but far more scenic and rewarding. I remove some layers and continue walking, enjoying the scenery.

The uphill through the forest doesn't last too long and ends soon, leading into a small town. I check the church door first thing, but Pedro Siesta has already beaten me to it. So I walk through the village, admiring the medieval atmosphere created by the buildings of stone and old trees everywhere.

After that town, the hike changes drastically. There is no more forest to walk through. I walk on a dirt path, with green grass surrounding me on the mountain. Amazing views unfold at every turn, and snowy mountains reveal themselves from across the valley. Every few steps I look back, admiring the scene unfolding before me. The more I walk, the higher I get, and the better the view becomes.

I continue walking up the mountain, stunned by the views. I play music from the Lord of the Rings soundtrack to enhance the experience. There really is no way to describe the beauty of this ascent. The pictures do not do it justice. Everywhere I look, there's a valley, a snowy peak, a distant forest, a tiny village. The light drizzle persists, and I see my first sign of snow on the ground.

The spectacular views continue to get better as I walk, and I take in as much of it as I can. Snow lines the path now, and the mountain rises to my right, leaving me on a mountain ridge. I don't think much. I just silently enjoy the scenery and thank God for it all.

After a bend in the path that rounds the mountain, I see a building in the distance. I also see a stone sign saying I've entered Galicia! This is the final region of the Camino, and supposedly one of the prettiest. I can't wait to see what's in store!

As I get closer to the building, I realize I'm at my destination for the night, O Cebreiro. The city is built right on a mountain peak with 360 degree views all around. It's gorgeous. It has also started snowing very lightly, adding a beautiful touch to the town. I soon come to the albergue for the night and check in. Margaret is already there, and Sam, Eva, and Dan weren't far behind. We all shower and wind down, then go out to check out the town.

O Cebreiro is a small mountain town, and it's covered in snow, which is beautiful. The buildings are all made of stone, with cobblestone streets. We check out some souvenir shops, which are more common now that we're closer to Santiago de Compostela.

At 6:00, we go into the church, which has just opened. Sam, Margaret, and I sit inside, and soon a man comes in and starts setting up the altar. Then, after a few minutes, Mass begins. We had no idea that would happen, but it's a welcome surprise, at least for me. It's a very short Mass since we're the only three people there, but the simplicity is beautiful. After Mass ends, the priest calls us up to give us a blessing and a small rock with the yellow arrow painted on it. He explains that the yellow arrow actually originated from this town, when a priest decided to paint them to direct pilgrims along the correct route. It was a nice little ritual. After Mass, I spend a few minutes praying at the tabernacle. Then, the three of us leave and meet up with Dan and Eva at the only open restaurant.

At the restaurant, we all talk and have a good time. Luis, who had taken a rest day today, also joined us. I get a coke and we talk about our day and what we thought about on our walks. We all really enjoy walking alone. After a little while, we decide to get back to the albergue, where Dan is planning on making us curry rice for dinner.

While the others cook and hang out, I call Mikayla and tell her about my day. It's dark now, and the snow is lightly falling. It's very peaceful and a nice setting to call. We talk for a while, and eventually I go back inside to eat dinner.

Dan's curry is amazing and the 6 of us all eat together. We continue talking about how our Camino has been and what we're hoping for in the final week. It's been amazing so far! After a little while of talking, we all get pretty tired and head to bed. I fall asleep at 10:30, thanking God for my day. It was so beautiful! I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings - one thing for certain is more snow!