Nájera to Grañón (27.5km)

Today I woke up at 6:55 to beat the rush of people going to the bathroom at 7:00. I quickly changed my clothes and got ready for the day, then had a nice peaceful breakfast out in the common room. The hospitaleros, or hosts, had set out bread, peanut butter, jam, and oranges. After a quick breakfast, I went outside to watch the sky light up as I called Mikayla. We talked for about 20 minutes. It was a great way to start the day! I told her my plan for the day, and she talked about her day.

After, I headed back into the albergue just before 8:00. I chatted with the hospitaleros, and learned that the albergue is actually government owned. They have system where volunteers take 2 week shifts running an albergue and caring for the pilgrims. The current hospitaleros had done the Camino many times, and wanted to give back. I thought that was really nice. They gave some great advice on certain places to stop at in upcoming cities, or certain nice albergues to stay at. Their first recommendation was to push past the typical city to stay in after the one I was currently in, Nájera, and go to Grañón. I considered it and headed out at 8:30.

The bulk of the group we had stayed with last night headed about a few minutes before us. Margaret, Sam, and I decided to start the day together. I was excited to meet new people, so I spent the first hour of the walk talking to Sam. He's from Australia and he's been traveling Europe since November with his friends. He works jobs as they come, typically security jobs, and then travels when he can. Very interesting guy!

The landscape was nice today, much nicer than yesterday's. As soon as we left the town, we climbed a range of red clay hills. We walked through farmland among the red clay hills, which soon gave way to the classic grassy rolling hills.

Since we had all left around the same time, I could see the whole group of us from the previous night spread out down the hill. Most people walked alone, but a few paired up. After about an hour, Sam and I caught up to Margaret and one of the Scottish women named Claire. I hung back with them and Sam pushed on. Claire was telling the story of why she's doing the Camino. She's a very interesting woman! Her husband died 5 years ago and she's been working at a retreat center since then, but is doing the Camino to slow down and sort out her feelings.

We soon approached a small town and stopped at a cafe. One of the other Scottish ladies, Shan, was already inside. The three of us sat with her and ate and talked. I got a cafe con leche and fresh squeezed orange juice. It was fantastic. I finished off the last of my sponge cake and dipped it in my coffee. Then, Margaret and I continued on again.

We soon caught up to Shan, and started talking to her. We all shared stories of why we're doing the Camino, how our parents and grandparents met, what we do for work, and all the typical getting to know each other questions. Shan was in the Royal Airforce for most her life and had same cool stories to share.

After a while of walking, we created another hill. At the top, there was a nice park with benches and chairs waiting for us. Sam was up there too, and we all sat and took a break. I sat on a nice cold stone chair, which felt glorious. I also took off my boots and socks to let my feet air out. Le and a Spanish man named Constantino joined us too. Constantino has been walking since August (6 months!) and has been camping most of the time. It was a nice relaxing break and was very much needed. Breaks are great for morale!

After probably 20 minutes me, Shan, Sam, and Margaret continued on. We talked about how we had first heard of the Camino, compared our countries' slang, and continued to get to know each other. I asked Sam about the Great Emu War. If you don't know what that is, look it up. You won't be disappointed!

Sam, Margaret, and I shared our favorite patriotic songs (Yankee Doodle Dandy for us Americans and Waltzing Matilda for Sam) and discussed the differences between Australia and America. The rest of the walk was entirely green rolling hills, which was very pretty.

The walk continued on and we soon arrived at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We wanted to check out the cathedral, but it was closed for siesta. Classic siesta. So we just ate bread rolls outside of the church and took a small break. After a time, we decided to push to Grañón, which was another 7km.

The last part of the walk was in silence. We spread out and did our own thing. I prayed a rosary and then tried to learn how to roll my R's for about 20 minutes straight. I think I'm better at it now, but I still can't do it properly. Then finally I prayed for at least half an hour. It was nice. I thought about the rest of the Camino and how God wants me to change. I didn't come up with any clear answer, but I think that's one that takes the whole Camino to figure out sometimes.

Finally, at 4:00, we made it to Grañón. The only open albergue was a donativo, which is a donations-based albergue. This one was attached to the town cathedral, and it was very quaint. There are no bunk beds, but sleeping mattresses that you lay out in the loft of a side building connected to the church. There is a fireplace and a nice circle of chairs around it, and then a kitchen and dining area. It felt like a little Spanish cabin.

The hospitalero, Fernando, was a very nice Spanish man. He checked us in and then told us about everything they do in a day: we all help to make a pilgrims' dinner at 6:00, Mass at 7:00, dinner at 8:00, then a special prayer service at 9:30. I was excited for it all! I went in and laid out my mattress and put down my pack, then showered and washed my clothes.

After that, there was some time to kill before making dinner. I talked to some of the new people at this albergue. There's 9 of us! Most are part of that big group that Sam had been traveling with. They all got a stomach bug too, so had taken a very short day today. That meant Sam could catch up with them, and so could Margaret and I. There's a German girl, a girl from Holland, a guy from France, a guy from England, and then a woman from the Czech Republic. They're all nice and friendly people.

After some chatting, most people helped make dinner. I was on cleaning duty after dinner so I called Mikayla instead. I told her about the people I met and talked with her for a little while. It was really nice.

At 7:00, I went to Mass. Surprisingly, most of the pilgrims in the albergue went too, although not many more than one or two of them were Catholic. Mass was held in a side chapel of the cathedral, since the main cathedral room is too cold. It was nice and intimate, in a small room. At the end, the priest called up the pilgrims and we received a special pilgrims' blessing. It was a very nice moment.

After Mass, it was time for dinner! Fernando had made us all a really good vegetable soup, with some cheese and meat on the side. It was very good, and I had 3 bowls. It was nice to all talk and get to know each other during dinner. Fernando told us about some of the Spanish customs, especially during Lent. At the end of dinner, Fernando brought us all some great Spanish chocolate custard!

After dinner, I helped to clean up and then talked to the English guy named Dan and the French guy named Miel about why they were doing the Camino. Dan was between jobs and had been wanting. Miles wanted a spiritual journey and also wanted to travel.

Time flew and then it was 9:30. All the pilgrims went into the choir balcony of the main cathedral and had a nice prayer ritual. We all first sat in silent prayer for two minutes with the lights off and the altar lights on. Then we passed around a candle with all the lights off and everyone got to say something in their native language. I thanked God for everything on the Camino and in my regular life. It was a beautiful moment and we all got to express our true feelings in a moment of peace. After, we all joined hands and said the Our Father in our own language. Then, Fernando had us all hug each other. What a nice ritual! It was definitely a very special time.

After the prayer, we all got ready for bed. I journaled, then finally finished at 11:00. Now it's time for bed. Thank you God for a blessed day!