Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza (17.2km)
- Grant Smith
- Feb 26, 2024
- 7 min read
As I'm writing this, I'm sitting in the warm sun, finally free from the wind, soaking my extremely swollen feet in freezing cold water. It's safe to say that the foot pain I was expecting has begun!
I woke up today around 7:45, after a fitful night of sleep. The Spanish don't like running their radiators at night, and I had figured that the nice thick wool blanket would be a decent replacement of my sleeping bag for the night. I figured wrong. Me, along with everyone else (even those in their sleeping bags!) woke up many times during the night due to the cold. At one point, after waking up for probably the fifth time, I opened my eyes to see who was already awake. The guy next to me had already woken up and left. Hallelujah, a second blanket! And no sooner did I slap that blanket on and start falling asleep, finally warm, than my alarm went off. Figures!

I got up and lazily started getting ready. Since I hadn't used my sleeping bag, my pack was already mostly ready. At 8:30, me, Margaret, Dan, and Sam were ready to go find a cafe for some breakfast.

Since this town is bigger than the average town, there was an open cafe right across the street. Margaret, Dan, and I went inside while Sam sat outside to do an online interview. He had applied to be an outdoor camp instructor who also teaches English, in Germany, and had his interview at 9:00.

Margaret, Dan, and I enjoyed our coffee with pastries and then headed out at 9:00. We only had to walk 17 kilometers today, so the plan was to take it slow and enjoy it. I definitely needed a slow day after the long, long walk yesterday. After walking for a while, the three of us talking the whole way, we started seeing... blue arrows? I checked my map and found out we had gone about 1 kilometer off course. 19 kilometer day it is!

Once we had walked back to the proper path, and found the proper yellow arrows marking the Camino, we happened to run into Sam, which was convenient. The four of us set off, finally going the right direction now, and talked together for a while. Then, as usual, the conversation came to its natural end and we slowly spread out due to pacing. It's almost always Margaret way out front, me a ways behind her, Dan behind me, and Sam out of sight behind Dan. Occasionally, though, Dan and I switch places if I'm particularly slow. It's funny how that happens. I guess it's due to our natural pacing, but the order is never planned.

I walked alone for a while and took some time to pray, and then happened to catch up to Margaret. We talked about what we had reflected on during the solo time, and then reflected on all the cool people that we each have gotten the chance to meet on the Camino. We also talked about why we think that pilgrims and the Spanish are all so kind to one another. I noted that we're almost halfway done, and I recounted some of the bigger things I've been reflecting on during the last few weeks. It was good to voice the thoughts that had been going through my head out loud. After a while, I took a moment to put on my backpack rain cover, and then was alone again.


At some point, I came to some small shelter from the wind and light rain. Dan had passed me and was there, and Margaret and Constantino, a Spanish man we've seen from time to time, were also there. Constantino offered to make me some coffee, which I gratefully accepted, and I ate my sandwich while resting. Then, each of us continued on, one by one.


During my time alone, I came to a realization. For one, my feet were really starting to hurt. Every step was becoming painful. I also realized through listening more about Fr. Walter Cizek and his story that everything that happens is by God's design. For a while I've had the idea that some things are God's will but other things, especially tiny things that don't seem to matter or seem to happen naturally, just kind of happen by chance. But when reflecting on how powerful God is and how He pervades and sees all things, I realized that nothing, not even the tiniest detail, goes unnoticed by Him, and everything, absolutely everything, has a part to play in reaching God's ultimate will for the world. Fr. Walter Cizek, upon arriving to Russia to be an undercover missionary priest, had found everyone unwilling to discuss religion due to communist rule and their punishments. He found himself despairing and asking why he had been called to be a missionary priest in Russia if he couldn't even do his job. But one day, he realized that it must be God's will. God directs all things. God could have made Fr. Walter a successful missionary if He had wanted, but what if the greater good was for Fr. Walter to fail, be sent to USSR labor camps, and ultimately throw his whole trust to God, surviving and later inspiring millions with his story? I thought about this as my foot pain grew worse and worse. I realized that, even if I never see or notice the outcome, everything happens by God's design and serves His purposes. What if my foot pain was sent by God? What then? Will I accept it, as I ultimately must anyways, or will I rail against it and complain? Will I allow this thing that God has allowed to happen to sanctify me, and love His will, or will I scornfully endure it without love? Will I become bitter or will I increase my love for God through this small trial?


These questions raced through my head as my foot pain grew worse. Every step had become like stepping on a bed of needles. I only had a few more kilometers to go, but it seemed so long. Would I accept that God had allowed this to happen, and love His will? I told God that I would, and made each step an act of loving God, as best as I could. It was a very painful hour walking the last few kilometers to our town for the night. I told God that I don't need any warm fuzzies, or any great relief by the end of the walk. Even if the pain simply persisted, I would continue to endure it with love, trusting that it is God's will and that the pain will sanctify and strengthen me. And even if I don't ultimately see or notice the results, I won't change my mind. I must learn to see the world and the events around me with spiritual eyes, God's eyes, instead of mine.

Finally, after cresting a small hill, the town came into view. I practically limped into the albergue, paid for the night, and then fell into my bed. I put my feet up on the wall and laid down, allowing the blood to drain from my feet. Then, after a few minutes, I took a short nap to ease my exhaustion.
A little while later, I woke up. I got to meet a nice Australian married couple named Joe and Kate and introduce myself to them, talking for a few minutes. Then I took a shower. The hot water felt good, especially since it's freezing in the albergue, but it was painful on my feet. I figured I should soak them in cold water to ease the swelling, so I went outside and got a bucket of cold water and a chair.
After a few minutes of agony (the water was really cold!) my feet became numb and I started writing my blog. The bottom of my feet are very swollen and extremely tender. I wrote for a little over an hour, so that later I can get to bed early to allow my feet extra time to heal. Around 5:40, I finished up and put my flip flops back on. I couldn't feel my feet too well, but what I did feel was painful. Thankfully, they started to feel better as they warmed up, and it turns out that the cold water worked! They're not quite as swollen as before.


I then went to dinner with Yondue, Woody, Sam, Dan, Margaret, Vitalia, the Australian guy Joe, a German man named Ziggy, and a new Spanish girl named Ainabelle. The ten of us went to the only open restaurant in the small town of Calzadilla de la Cueza. It was nice place, and I got a Carbonara pizza and some coke, with some wine too.

On my side of the table was Dan, Sam, Margaret, and Joe. Joe told us about how he and his wife decided to do the Camino. They had decided to quit their jobs and travel for a few years before having kids. Exciting! Joe is a really interesting and awesome guy, and we talked a lot about the gym since he's a powerlifter. Him and Sam talked a bit about Australia since they're both from there, and they told some funny Australia stories. The five of us also compared our countries (America, England, Australia) and the common customs and norms. It was a good time. Eventually, I talked to Vitalia about religion for a bit, and she asked me about my faith and why I believe that I believe. She asked some good tough questions! That was also fun. Then Joe's wife Kate joined us and we shared our experiences on the Camino so far. It was good fun, and a great way to end a hard day!

After dinner, it was 9:00. We had been there for quite some time! I walked to the hill just before town and stared at the clear night's moon and stars as I talked to Mikayla on the phone. I told her about my day and my reflections, and my experiences with my new friends. It was a good call, and the beautiful night's scenery made it even better. Finally, I went inside to sleep before they locked the doors at 10:00.
It's been quite a day, and I don't have too much hope for nice feet tomorrow, but I'm ready for whatever challenge I must take on. Thank you God for an amazing day! I'm sure this one will be of particular note in my memory.
I'm following the life of Father Cizek too. I love your reflections. Hope your feel feel better!
Praying for you and that your feet feel better. 🙏🫶🏻